One of the pleasures of Tsuitachi-mairi is the Tsuitachi-mochi that Akafuku sells only on the first day of each month. The tradition began in 1978 as a way of welcoming first-of-the-month pilgrims with a seasonal rice cake. In every month except January — when the shop is busy with the New Year — a confection appears that reflects the season of that month.

Tsuitachi-mochi by month

- February: Risshun Daikichi mochi (celebrating the first day of spring) - March: Yomogi (mugwort) mochi - April: Sakura mochi - May: Kashiwa (oak-leaf) mochi - June: Mugite mochi - July: Sasa-warabi mochi - August: Hassaku awa (millet) mochi - September: Hagi-no-mochi (bush clover) - October: Kuri (chestnut) mochi - November: Ebisu mochi - December: Yuki (snow) mochi

Tasting the seasons

It begins with a mochi celebrating the first day of spring, followed by the spring plants — mugwort, cherry, oak leaf — then cooling warabi mochi in summer, bush clover and chestnut in autumn, and at the year's end the yuki-mochi, evocative of snow. Follow the Tsuitachi-mochi through the year and you can taste the turning of Ise's seasons just as they pass.

Tsuitachi-mochi is popular enough that queues form from early morning, and in some months reservations are accepted. The lineup and names can change, so check Akafuku's official information before you go. Visiting Ise on the first of each month in search of a taste found only that day — that, too, is a lovely way to live with the seasons.